Proper Fish Bites & Chips

Matt has pretty high standards when it comes to his favorite foods from back home. According to him, the chips in American restaurants never come out quite right. Or restaurants choose to serve fries, which are NOT chips. He took me to a proper chip shop in Durham, England over Christmas last year. I couldn't understand how the employees were not all wearing face masks. The shop was tiny and hot. The air was so thick with oil and the smell of fried food. It was nauseating. The shop dressed our fish and chips with malt vinegar, then they wrapped it up in newspapers and we made our way back to his parents house. When we unwrapped the not so little parcels, I found a mound of chips and a piece of fish as long as my forearm. The outside of the fish was golden and crispy. The inside was plump and flakey. The chips were a bit soft and tasted tangy from the malt vinegar. It was totally worth almost suffocating at the chip shop. This meal was incredible but it ended up being too much food for the both of us. We should have shared one serving.

I decided to experiment with one of the recipes from a book that Matt's mom gave me for Christmas, Tom Kerridge's Proper Pub Food.  Kerridge is an English Michelin-starred chef. This recipe is adapted from his. Matt likes his chips a little soft, I like my chips extra crunchy. Kerridge boils, then fries his potatoes twice to achieve this. When we made this recipe, we blanched the potatoes for a few minutes (although Matt insisted we didn't need to) and we only fried them once. If you prefer crispy chips like I do, blanch, then fry twice as the recipe states below.

Adapted from Tom Kerridge's Proper Pub Food

For the chips

  • 8 large potatoes
  • vegetable oil, for deep frying
  • salt
  • malt vinegar, for serving

For the battered fish

  • 2 egg whites
  • 12 oz self raising flour, plus a little extra for dusting
  • large pinch of baking soda
  • 12 oz sparkling soda (or beer if you prefer)
  • 2 large cod, haddock or halibut filets
  • 1 teaspoon salt

For the chips, cut into thick wedges. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the chips for a few minutes until soft but still holding their shape. Remove the chips with a slotted spoon and let them drain on a wire rack or paper towels. Preheat the oven to 190F. You will place the fried batches of fish and chips in the oven to keep them warm and crispy until all of the batches are cooked. Drain each batch on paper towels before putting them into the oven.

Fill a deep fryer or dutch oven with vegetable oil and preheat the oil to 300F. Cook the blanched chips for approximately 8-10 minutes. This will need to be done in small batches unless you have a large fryer. Strain on a wire rack or a plate lined with paper towels. Then fry them again until golden and extra crispy and place in the oven to keep warm.

For the battered fish, beat the egg whites until very soft peaks form when the whisk is removed. In a separate bowl mix the flour, salt, baking soda and sparking water together. Gently stir in the egg white mixture. Mix just to combine, but don't overwork (a few lumps are fine). Set aside in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oil in the deep fryer to 350F.  Pour some flour onto a shallow plate. If you have a small fryer, cut the fish into about 3 inch pieces. Dust the fish with a thin layer of flour, dip in the batter and deep fry until the batter is golden-brown and crisp. Make sure you don't add too much fish at a time. This will decrease the temperature of the oil and the fish will take longer to cook and it will make it much harder to turn golden brown.

Sprinkle the fish and chips with coarse salt. Serve with malt vinegar, tartar sauce and ketchup and mushy peas.